Method of weaving seamless hip-pockets



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, A. 1). EMERY. METHOD OF WEAVING SBAMLESS HIP POGKETS.

Patented Nov 12, 1889.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 2. A. D. EMERY.

METHOD OF WEAVING SEAMLESS HIP POGKETS. No. 415,158. Patented Nov. 12,1889.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

A. D. EMERT METHOD OF WEAVING SEAMLESS HIP POGKBTS.

No. 415,158. Patented Nov. 12,1889.

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A. D. EMERY. METHOD OF WEAVING SBAMLESS HIP POGKETS.

Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ABRAM D. EMERY, OF TAUNTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF WEAVING SEAMLESS HIP-POCKETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 415,158, dated November 12, 1889.

Application filed August 3, 1889. Serial No. 319,701. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ABRAM D. EMERY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Taunton, in the county of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in the Method of Weaving Seamless Hip-Pockets, of which the following is a full description.

My invention relates to a method of weaving seamless hip pockets such as are described by me in an application filed May 31, 1889, Serial No. 312,831, (Case 16.) The pockets there described consist of a body, a closed bottom, and an extension or flap, and are composed of chain-threads running longitudinally of the pocket and two separate weftthreads running across the same. The weftthreads make continuous passages in opposite directions around an endless tube, crossing each other at opposite edges of the same, where they pass by each other from one shedding into a succeeding shedding, thus forming the body of the pocket. The weftthreads are interlaced with all the chain threads to form the closed bottom of the pocket. The flap or extension is formed by one of the weftthreads making passages back and forth through one-half of the chainthreads. The method of making these pockets, which forms the subject of the present application, results from a modification of my general system of weaving, as set forth in the application filed by me February 28, 1889, Serial No. 265,639, and involves the use of a loom so organized as to be capable of weaving in continual repetition a fabric of doubleweight goods, a tube, and two separate fabrics side by side in the loom. To this end I employ, as before, two shuttles simultaneously driven through two paths in a single set of chain-threads. The method, however, is divided into three stages, in the first of which the chain-threads are passed from the inside of one half to the outside of the other half in regular order, the shuttles being reversed at both sides of the loom. In the next stage the chain-threads are shed in pairs, the paths or openings being always between the same two series of chain-threads, the shuttles bei'ng rcversed, as before, at both sides of the loom. At the next stage the chain-threads are shed as just referred to, but the shuttles are not reversed at either side of the loom.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 of Sheet 1 represent the component parts of a loom and show the four sheddings employed in binding the two halves into one fabric to form the bottoms of the pockets. Figs. 5, G, 7, and 8 of Sheet 2 in like manner represent the four sheddings requisite for forming the tube constituting the body of the pocket. Figs. 9, 10, 11, and 12, Sheet 3, represent the four sheddings requisite for forming the two separate fabrics that constitute the flaps or long sides of the pockets. Figs. 13, 14,15, and 16 of Sheet 4 are enlarged sections of the four sheddings as shown in Figs. 1 to at of Sheet 1. Figs. 17, 18, 19, and 20, Sheet 4., are enlarged cross-sections of the four shecdings as shown in Figs. 5 to 8, Sheet 2'. Figs. 21, 22, 23, and 24, Sheet 5, are enlarged cross-sections of Figs. 9 to 12 of Sheet 3. Fig. 25, Sheet 5, is a draft of the several chainthreads in the conventional style. Fig. 26, Sheet 5, is a side view of the fabric. Fig. 27 is a cross-section of the fabric, showing the direction taken by the several chain-threads in the different parts of the fabric.

For the purposes of description one of the weft-threads is shown shaded and the other plain in all the views.

Referring to Figs. 1 to 12, Sheets 1, 2, and 3, the numerals 1, 2, 3, and 4 indicate the four series of chain-threads, which are always shed in pairs to make two paths or openings side by side. These chain-threads, coming from a single chain-roller 27, are governed by a compensating whip-roller, as described in application filed by me May 31, 1889, Serial No. 312,828, (Case The chain-threads 3 and a pass over and under the ends of equalizing lever 25, and threads 1 and 2 pass over and under the ends of equalizing-lever 26. The threads 1, 2, 3, and 4 pass between the bendlug-rollers 23 and 24, which keep the threads forming the outside of the shedding at an equal tension, as more fully described by me in the application last referred to.

The numeral 5 indicates the shaded weftt-hread shown attached to shuttle 7.

The numeral 6 indicates the plain weftthread which is shown attached to the shuttle 8.

The numeral 9 indicates the reed through which all the chain-threads pass.

10 is the fabric in process of formation.

The chain-threads 1 pass through eyes in heddle 11, threads 2 pass through eyes in beddle 12, threads 3 pass through eyes in heddle 1.3, and threads 4 pass through eyes in heddle 14, it being understood that the threads 1, 2, 3, and 4 are one of each series of chain-threads used to form the fabric. The heddle-cords 11 and 12 are connected together and pass over and around the large roller 19, which has an oscillating motion imparted to it, so as to place the heddle-eyes in either of the positions desired. The opposite ends of these heddles pass around the smaller roller 21. The bending-roller 22 keeps the heddle 11 in alignment with the top of roller 19, and bendingroller 20' likewise aligns heddle 12 with the bottom of roller 21. The heddles 13 and 14 in like manner pass around the large oscil- .lating roller 15 and the opposite end around the small roller 17. The bending-rollers 16 and 18 align the heddles 14, the heddle 13 forming a tangent to both rollers 15 and 17.

Referring to the first four sheddings illustrated in Figs. 1 to 4, it will be seen that the chain-threads are shed in pairs, forming two paths or openings side by side, and that the chain-threads pass from one half or path to the other in regular orderthat is, a chainthread is first extended on the outside of one path at one shedding, is at the center at the next shedding, at the outside of the other path at the next shedding, and then again at the center, and so on. This manipulation of the chain-threads with the passage of the weftthreads, as now to be described, serves to form a single piece of fabric of double-Weight goods. The fabric thus formedconstitutes the closed bottom of the pocket.

Referring now to the operation in detail, in Fig. 1, Sheet 1, it will be seen that heddle 13 is at the extremity of its motion toward the Side B, carrying chain-thread 3 to its extreme position on that side, while the heddle 14, which isa continuation of heddle 13, is at the extremity of its motion on the side L, carrying chain-thread 4to its extended position on that side. The heddles 11 and 12 are in the center of their motion or middle position and carry the chain-threads 1 and 2 to the inside of the two separate sheddings. This forms the first double shedding, with threads 3 and 4 on the two outsides and 1 andv 2 on the two insides, thus simultaneously forming two paths or openings in the chainthreads. The shuttles are represented as being in the rear boxes with their attached threads extending from them to the fabric 10. They are now simultaneously driven through the openings formed as above, shuttle '7 in the path or opening on the side R and shuttle 8 in the path or opening on the side L, carrying their attached threads from rear to front thread 5 filling one side of the fabric, and

the thread 6 filling the opposite side of the same. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 1, Sheet 1, to the position as shown in Fig. 2, in which the chain-thread l,governed by the heddle 11, is extended on the side L, and chain-thread 2, governed by heddles 12, is extended on the side R, while-the threads 3 and 4, governed by the heddles 13 and 14, are in the center, forming the second double shedding and making a plain cross of the chain-threads over the weft-threads. The shuttles are now turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 1 to the position as shown in Fig. 2, Sheet 1, and are driven through this second double shedding from front to rear, shuttle Slaying the thread 6 in the side R and shuttle 7 laying thread 5 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seen inposition in Fig. 14, Sheet 4, wherein the shaded thread 5 is seen on the side L between the chain-threads 1 and 4, and plain weftthread 6.is seen on the side R'between the chain-threads 2 and 3. The weft-threads 5 and 6 are also seen crossed between the chainthread 1 of the side L and 2 of the side R. The threads being beaten up form the second pick of weft. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 2, Sheet' 1, to the position as shown in Fig. 3, Sheet 1, in which chain-thread 4, go'verned by'heddle 14, is seen extended on the side R, and chain-thread 3, governed by the heddle 13, is extended on the side L, while the threads 1 and 2, governed by the heddles 11 and 12, are in the center, forming the third double shedding. The shuttles are now turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 2 to the position as shown in Fig. 3, Sheet 1, and are driven through this third double shedding from rear to front, shuttle 8 laying the thread 6 in the side L and shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side R. The threads 5 and 6 are seen in position in Fig. 15, Sheet 4,-wherein the shaded thread 5 is on the side R between the chain-threads2and 4, and thread 6 is on the side L between the chain-threads 3 and 1. The weftthreads are also seen crossed between the chain-threads 1 of side L and 2 of side R. The threads5 and 6 being beaten up form the third pick. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 3 to the position as shown in Fig. 4, Sheet 1, in which chain-thread 1, governed by heddle 11, is seen extended on the side R, and chain-thread 2, governed by heddle 12, is seen extended on the side L, while the threads 3 and 4, governed by the heddles 13 and 14, are in the center, forming the fourth double shedding. The shuttles are now turned in the direction i11- dicated by the arrows in Fig. 3 to the position as shown in Fig. 4, and are driven through the fourth double shedding from front to rear, shuttle 8 laying the thread 6 in the side R v and shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seen in position in Fig. 16, Sheet 4, wherein the plain thread 6 is on the side R between the chain-threads 1 and 4, and the shaded thread 5 is on the side L between the chain-threads 2 and 3. The weft-threads 5 and 6 are crossed between the thread 1 of side R and 2 of side L on the lefthand side. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up form the fourth pick. These four picks complete the sequence of the passage of the weft-threads necessary to bind the two sides together, forming one fabric.

The sheddings are worked over the requisite number of times to form a single fabric of double the length required for the binder of two pockets, when the sheddings are altered to produce the tube which forms the body of the pocket proper. In this manipulation the chain-threads are shed in pairs, as before, to form two paths or openings side by side; but the same two chain-threads or series of chain-threads are always on the same side, as more particularly described in my application filed February 28, 1888, Serial No. 265,639. Unlike the procedure in that application, the shuttles are now reversed at both sides of the 100111, resulting in forming a closed tube. The first shedding is shown in Fig. 5. The rollers 15 and 19 are moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 4, Sheet 1, to the position as shown in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, in which it will be seen that chainthread 3, governed by the heddle 13, is extended on the side R, and chain-thread 4, governed by heddle 14, is extended on the side L,while the threads 2 and 1, governed by the heddles 11 and 12, are in the center, forming the first double shedding of this series. The shuttles are turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 4, Sheet 1, to the position as shown in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, and are driven through this first shedding from rear to front, shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side R and shuttle 8 laying the thread 6 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seen in position in Fig. 17, Sheet 4, wherein the shaded thread 5 is between the threads 3 and l on the side R, and plain thread 6 is between the threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads are crossed between the threads 1 and 2 on the right-hand side. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up form the first pick of this series. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, to that as shown in Fig. 6, Sheet 2, in which chain-thread 1, governed by heddle 11, is seen extended on the side R, and chain-thread 2, governed by heddle 12, is extended on the side L, while the chain-threads 3 and 4, governed by the heddles 13 and 14, are in the center, forming the second double shedding of this series. The shuttles are turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 5 to the position as shown in Fig. 6, Sheet 2, and are then driven through this second shedding from front to rear, shuttle Slaying the thread 6 in the side It and shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seen in position in Fig. 18, Sheet 4, wherein the plain thread 6 is between the chain-threads 1 and 3 on the side R, and shaded thread 5 is between the chain-threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are crossed between the chainthreads 1 and 2 on the left-hand side. The threads being beaten up form the second pick of this series. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 6 to that shown in Fig. 7 and form the third double shedding, which is the same as the first of the series, as shown in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, chain-thread 3 being extended on the side R and thread4 on the side L,with 1 and 2 in the middle. The shuttles are turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 6 to that as shown in Fig. 7, and are driven through this third double shedding from rear to front, shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side R, and the shuttle 8, carrying the thread 6,in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seen in position in Fig. 19,wherein the thread 5 is between the threads 3 and 1 on the side R and thread 6 is between the threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads are also crossed between the threads 1 and 2, as seen on the right-hand side of the figure. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up form the third pick, which is like the first of this series, as shown in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, and in enlarged cross-section, Fig. 17. Sheet 4. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 7 to that as shown in Fig-8 and form the fourth double shedding, which is the same the second of this series, as shown in Fig. 6, Sheet 2, the chain-thread 1 being extended on the right, thread 2 extended on the left, with threads 3 and 4 in the center. The shuttles are turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 7 to the position as shown in Fig. 8, and are driven through this fourth double shedding from front to rear, shuttle 8 laying thread 6 in the side R and shuttle 7 laying the thread 5 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are seenin position in Fig. 20,whcrein the thread 6 is between the threads 1 and 3 on the side R, and 5 is between the threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads5 and 6 are also seen crossed between the threads 1 and 2 on the left-hand side. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up fOlDl the fourth pick, which is like the second, as seen in Fig. 6, Sheet 2, and enlarged View, Fig. 18, Sheet 4. The heddles are worked over the requisite number of times to produce the length desired for forming the body of one pocket. The shuttles beingalternately at the front and rear of the loom and being transferred at each passage, it follows that in their passage from front to rear the shuttles always pass through the same half of the fabric and in their passage from rear to front they pass through the other half of the fabric. This is seen upon examining the views, Figs. 1 to 8, Sheets 1 and 2. The odd sheddings, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, 5, and 7, are those in which the shuttles pass from rear to front. In these sheddings the shuttle '7 is on the side R and 8 on the side L. In the even sheddings, as shown in Figs. 2, 4, 6, and 8, the shuttle 7 is on the side L and 8 on the side R. The turning ofthe shuttles at each side binds the two parts together at the edges of both sides. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 8, Sheet 2, to the position as shown in Fig. 9, Sheet 3, placing the thread 3 on the right, thread 4 on the left, and threads 1 and 2 in the center. This forms the first shedding of this series, which is like that shown in Fig. 5, Sheet 2, the first of the preceding series. The shuttles are turned in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 8, Sheet 2, to the position as shown in Fig. 9, Sheet 3, and passed through this double shedding from rear to front, shuttle 7 carrying thread 5 in the side R, and shuttle 8 carrying the thread 6 in the side L. The threads 5 and 6 are shown in position in Fig. 21, Sheet 5, wherein it will be seen that the thread 5 is between the chain-threads 1 and 3 on the side R, and the thread 6 is between the threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up form the first pick of this third series, or that part in which the flap or long side of the pocket is formed. The rollers 15 and 19 are now moved in the direction indicated by the arrows in Fig. 9 to the position as shown in Fig. 10, Sheet 3, placing the threads 1 on the side R and 2 on the side L, with threads 3 and 4 in the center, and form the second double shedding. The shuttles are not turned, but return through the same sides they just traversed, shuttle 7 carrying thread 5 in the side R, and shuttle 8 carrying thread 6 in the side L, and will be seen in position in the enlarged cross-section, Fig. 22, Sheet 5, wherein the thread 5 is seen between the threads 1 and 3 on the side R, and the thread 6 between the threads 2 and 4 on the side L. The threads 5 and 6 being beaten up form the second pick of this series. The third double shedding is shown in Fig. 11, Sheet 3, which is in all respects like the first, as shown in Fig. 9. The shuttles are passed from rear to front, as in Fig. 9, and form the third pick, and the threads 5 and 6 are shown in position in enlarged view, Fig. 23, Sheet 5, which is a duplicate of Fig. 21. The fourth double shedding is shown in Fig. 12, Sheet 3, and is a duplicate of the second, as shown in Fig. 10, Sheet The shuttles are passed from front to rear, carrying their attached threads through the fourth double shedding, and threads 5 and 6 are seen in enlarged View, Fig. 24, Sheet 5, which is in all respects like Fig. 22. These four picks form two separate fabrics side by side, each one being a continuation of either side. This manner of formation is continued for the length desired to form the flap or long side of the pocket when the second series is worked over, as before, for the desired length, and then the first series is worked over for the distance desired,when two pockets will have been formed. The second series is now worked over, and then the third, and the operation continued. The chain-threads are now out across at a point in the center of the interlaced part that is, the part formed by the first series of sheddingsthus producing the pockets in pairs. Upon cutting across the chain-threads of each flap, leaving a flap or long side attached to each of the two fabrics, the single pockets are produced. It will be seen that one pocket is composed of all the chainthreads and the two weft-threads in the interlaced or single cloth portion formed by the first series of sheddings. The two sides, so far as theyare united at the edges, are formed of both the weft-threads by working over the heddles, as shown in the second series of sheddings, and the flap is formed of one of the weft-threads and one half of the chainthreads. The other pocket is formed in like manner. except that the flap is composed of the other weft-thread and the remaining half of the chain-threads.

In Fig. 25, Sheet 5, is seen a draft of the chain-threads as they appear looking on the side R of the several views, and in which the small squares having a cross designate the risers, or those threads extended on side R, and those with the dots the sinkers, or those threads extended on the side L, while the blank spaces indicate those threads which are in the center. The numerals 1, 2, 3, and 4 represent the several threads as they are numbered across the loom. From the point V to the point W are indicated four sheddings of the part used to form the interlacing of all the chain-threads about the two weft-threads. These threads are raised on the face of the design or side R in the order 3, 2, 4, and 1.

The dots or the threads extended on the side L are worked over as follows: 4, 1, 3, and 2. The other threads in the several sheddings are in the center. From the point W to the point Y are indicated twenty sheddings as used to form the body and flap of the pocket. The threads are here raised or extended on the side R in the following order: 3 1 and 3 1. On the opposite side or side L the order is 4 2 and then 4 2. Thus the threads 1 and 3 form the fabric on the side R and 4 and 2 on the side L.

The hip-pocket as produced is seen in partial plan in Fig. 26 and in section in Fig. 27,

Sheet 5, where the several positions of the threads may be seen. The two weft-threads in the interlaced bottom of the pocket and in the body of the pocket follow each other in alternation on either side, while in the flap or extension one weft-thread is continuously in one flap and the other in the other.

I make no claim in this application to the method of weaving double weight fabrics which is involved in the interweaving of the two sides of the pockets to form the closed bottoms of the same. This method is merely incidental to the method of weaving pockets which is the subject of the present application, and forms the subject of another application filed by me October 7, 1889, No. 826,247, method of weaving double-weight goods, (Case 25.)

hat I claim is A method of weaving seamless hip-pockets, which consists in simultaneously shedding all the chain-threads in regular order and forming two openings side by side in the chainthreads, and simultaneously passing a weftthread into each of the openings so formed and from the same side of the loom, then repeating the shedding and passing each of the weft-threads through the path just traversed by the other, repeating the shedding and passing each of the weft-threads through the path just traversed by the other, repeating the shedding and passing each weft thread through the path just traversed by the other, and continuing the operation for the distance required to form the bottom of two pockets, then forming a path or opening in each of the two halves into which the same set of chain -threads is now divided and passing each weft-thread through the path just traversed by the other, repeating the shedding and passing each weft-thread through the path just traversed by the other, repeating the shedding and passing each weft-thread through the path just traversed by the other, repeating the shedding and passing each weftthread through the path just traversed by the other, and repeating until there is formed the body of the pocket, then forming openings in each of the two halves of the chain-threads and passing the weft-threads back and forth in the same paths untilthere is formed a flap or extended side for each of the two pockets, then repeating the operations for forming the body of the pocket, then for the bottom, and so on, forming an endless chain of pockets.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 29th day of July, A. D. 1880.

ABRAM D. EMERY.

\Vitnesses:

WM. T. DONNELLY, \VALTER T. EMERY. 

